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Retrofitting pool lighting: This is how you provide light at the pool!



pool lighting

pool lighting

Do you have a pool? And now you want pool lighting for it? Retrofitting is no problem! We will show you what technical options you have to illuminate your pool afterward and how you can retrofit the pool lighting to match your pool.

Even a pool in the garden is a dream: on hot summer days, it offers you the longed-for cooling off with a dip in the refreshing water. Whether you go into the pool alone, as a couple, or with the whole family, just take a dip there, play extensively or swim your laps in a disciplined manner, the pool fulfills the dreams of young and old. Have you got a taste for a pool? You will find a selection of different pools for your garden in our online shop – take a look!

With the right lighting, you have the opportunity to enjoy the water in the pool even after the sun has long since set. This will extend the usage times for your garden pool. Because the pool lighting provides atmospheric light in and around the pool at night. There are now so-called mood lights, the light of which shines in different colors or automatically changes from color to color as if by magic.

But pool lighting is not just something for the eye: It also ensures a high level of safety in the otherwise dark of night. A well-lit pool area reduces the risk of accidents and thus protects your well-being and health.

Our tip: The good news for all pool owners who only need the right lighting for a nightly pool party or a romantic bath in the moonlight: You can retrofit pool lighting at any time. How this works and what you have to pay attention to is explained below:

Retrofitting pool lighting – the technical possibilities

Basically, you have various options for adding lighting to your pool. These are the common pool lights for retrofitting:

Floating pool lighting – the very fast and inexpensive solution

Floating pool lights on the water of your pool like blooming water lilies. Modern versions of the swimming lights are battery-operated or run on solar energy, so there is no need for a power supply via cables. Some models can also be remotely controlled via WLAN.

Our tip: When buying your pool lighting for retrofitting, it is best to opt for the latest RGB generation of LED lamps. They save energy and do not heat the water even during long periods of operation. LEDs emit white or colored light and hardly need any maintenance during their long service life.

The batteries sit in a waterproof compartment and the light of the floating pool lamp often switches off automatically even after a certain period of non-use of the lamp. Such swimming lights are available in large numbers in different designs and with varying functionality. On the one hand, tested constructional safety should be decisive for purchase: When buying, pay attention to the protection class (for example IP68) of the floating pool lighting, which is declared by the manufacturer. On the other hand, it depends on the radiance of the light: Pay attention to the manufacturer’s information on the range of the light, both with regard to the illuminated area on the surface of the water and into the depths of the water.

The advantages of floating pool lighting are obvious: You can put them on the water at any time and immediately bathe and swim in their glow. The disadvantage is that you always have to have full spare batteries on hand in order to supply the pool lamps with less luminosity with fresh energy.

Simply hang it in – retrofit underwater pool lighting

Steel wall pools, also known as steel wall pools, can be set up in no time (hence the alternative name “above ground pool”), extremely flexible and therefore very popular in the garden. They consist of the eponymous steel jacket, an inner tank made of plastic film (PVC), a handrail (made of steel or plastic, depending on the model) for more comfort and matching floor rails. Round steel wall pools can be set up at a ground level, while oval pools are usually partly or completely embedded in the garden floor for better stability. If you want to retrofit pool lighting for such a steel tub, the best way to do this is with hanging lights (also known as hanging lights). The type designation is a program for these lamps: You can simply hang these pool lights on the edge of the pool and, if necessary, simply fix them there. Unlike the swimming lights for the pool described above, you have to connect the hanging lights to the mains. Commercially available hanging lights for retrofitting pool lighting often come with a power cable several meters long and a plug-in transformer, so you only need a socket within reach.

Our tip: A practical alternative to the subsequent pool lighting of a steel wall pool are pool lights that you can fix on the pool wall with the help of a magnet. The outside magnet is placed on the outside at the desired location and held inside by its counterpart, the underwater spotlight. Models with a suction cup are also available.

For retrofitting: underwater spotlights for your pool

Recessed underwater spotlights are, as can be deduced from the type designation, intended for permanent, i.e. permanent underwater installation in the pool (for example made of concrete). There are models for installation on the pool floor as well as for installation in the pool wall. The pool stairs are often particularly illuminated with spotlights in order to prevent accidents as much as possible.

Our tip: In case of doubt, you should definitely consult a specialist for the assembly of the pool lighting for subsequent installation.

Compared to the two options already presented for retrofitting pool lighting, the installation effort for these underwater spotlights is significantly higher. In order to retrofit the pool lighting, it must be embedded in the pool wall using suitable installation rails and then connected with the lamp cable. The niche required for installation, to which the lamp cable embedded in a protective tube leads, must be available.

Also think about sufficient lighting of the paths between the house, garden house, or garden sauna and pool so that the walk to the pool does not become a trip hazard!

Additional accessories for pool lighting for retrofitting

When choosing your pool lighting for retrofitting, pay attention to the possibility of functional expansion of the same. For example remote controls (also wirelessly via tablet and smartphone) for switching on and off, for activating various lighting effects such as pulsing light or color changes. A timer can also be a practical function, as it ensures that the pool lighting is only on when it is night.

So you know how to retrofit pool lighting. Are you still missing the pool? In our online shop, we have various solid wood pools on offer for you!

Are you looking for additional inspiration around swimming pools in the garden? Then take a look at our Pinterest board about the garden house and pond. On Pinterest we have also put together a large number of beautiful boards on the subject of houses, gardens and garden shed for you.

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Planning a fence: The ABC of planning a fence that is worth knowing



Planning a fence

Planning a fence

Would you like to plan a fence? Our fence planner explains everything from A to Z that you need to know about fence planning: From A for construction to B for greening, L for noise protection, K for costs to R for repair and Z for fence types – you will find everything here Aspects of Planning Your Fence Information. Without a long foreword, today we go straight to the topic of planning fences – and start our fence planning ABC. Here we go!

A – structure

Once the decision has been made in favor of a fence, it must be built. You can either do this yourself with good instructions and manual skills in order to save assembly costs. Or you can leave the fence construction to a professional and pay them for their services.

Our tip: In our magazine article ” Building a fence: Guide to building a fence yourself out of wood, metal, plastic and stone ” we provide you with easy-to-understand and comprehensible instructions for building fences. Take a look!

B – greening

Should your fence be greened, for example with climbing plants? Then the greening should be part of the fence planning because the fence material plays just as much a role in the planting as the fence type. Our article on the subject of fences & climbing plants explains everything you need to know and gives you many examples of plants climbing, twisting or climbing along the fence.

C – computer programs

You can find numerous online fence planners on the Internet. These are practical configuration programs that you can use to plan your dream fence step by step. To do this, you usually have to select the desired fence model in the desired dimensions. In the end, the configurator “spits out” a fence package made up of individual components, which you only have to put in the shopping cart of the associated online shop and pay for.

D – design

Fences are available in numerous designs: from simple to ornate, from traditional to modern – you can choose from a wide variety of materials and designs.

Our tip: When buying a fence, pay attention to what purpose your fence is supposed to fulfill and choose a fence that also visually matches your garden or property to be fenced in. You should also take a comparative look at your neighbors and their fences to find out about the “local design” and ask the responsible building authority whether there are regulations for your fence project that not only include the size of the fence (see under G), but also affect the fence design.

E – permit (building permit)

You should definitely contact the responsible building authority in your community in the course of planning the fence in order to find out which regulations you have to observe when setting up a fence. There you can also find out whether your fence requires a permit.

Our tip: Take a look at our guide “ Fence building permit: You need to know about fencing! “, In which we explain everything you need to know about building permits for your planned fence and also name the federal states-specific” local “dimensions for fences, which as a rule do not require a permit.

F – foundation

When planning the fence, keep in mind that the fence must be set up so that it stands securely. Depending on the design, a fence forms a more or less large obstacle for the wind that blows around your house corner. The forces with which wind and weather act on the fence must be diverted without damaging the fence. Knowledge of statics is therefore required here. Special attention is therefore paid to the foundation of the load-bearing fence posts, which give the structure strength.

Our tip: In our guide, we will inform you about different types of foundations, such as the point foundations common for fence posts.

G – size

Depending on the purpose your fence will serve, you need to plan its size. In particular, the fence height is a fence size that should be planned: Because a fence on your property is subject to local building regulations. Depending on the purpose of the fence, it may only have a certain height, otherwise you need a building permit (see E for permit) for it. Here we give you general guidelines:

  • Height of garden and willow fences: about 100 to 140 centimeters
  • Height of fences for symbolic demarcation: around 40 to 90 centimeters
  • Height of fences to protect against unauthorized entry: up to 80 centimeters (can still be climbed)
  • Height of fences to protect against falling: 110 to 120 centimeters
  • Height of fences to protect young children and animals: 100 to 140 centimeters
  • Height of privacy fences (eye level 160 centimeters): 170 to 190 centimeters

H – wooden fence

When planning a fence, you should know that a wooden fence made from wood, a natural building material, will rot under the influence of the weather. Precipitation and UV light add to the fence wood and thus shorten the life of your wooden fence. Suitable wood protection that you apply regularly to your fence can help. If you are planning a wooden fence, you should therefore take into account that its maintenance and care mean regular expenditure: time and costs for the wood preservatives.

Our tip: Read our article of the same name about wood fence care!

I – ideas

Sometimes you can’t see the fence because of all the fence pickets. Therefore, you should take enough time to plan the fence and decide on your dream fence in peace. After all, such a fence will stand for decades! Walkthrough your place and look around what fences there are and which ones you like. It is also worth taking a look at the Internet: Our article ” Original fences: tips for designing fences for beginners, advanced and professionals ” provides you with beautiful fence ideas.

J – Art Nouveau

Wrought iron fences from the Art Nouveau style (turn of the 19th and 20th centuries) are still popular in Germany, Austria and Switzerland today. The typical Art Nouveau fence often has curved struts that tend to fan out from a point and are decorated with stylized flowers, leaves and tendrils. Such fences are elaborately hand-forged and therefore have their price. They are used in particular as front garden fences, also in the Art Nouveau districts of cities.

K – cost

Due to the variety of fences, it is impossible at this point to give you concrete fence costs and prices. These depend on the type of fence as well as the fence material, its processing and dimensions. For the first impression of fence prices and costs, we recommend that you take a look around our online shop, where we offer many fences including accessories for property and garden.

L – noise protection

A fence can perform various tasks, including fencing, delimiting, securing, privacy protection and property protection. In our louder and louder world, noise protection is becoming more and more important as a task for the fence. For example, your fence should be you

  • in front of the noise of a sports facility (soccer field, swimming pool),
  • a street or
  • a noisy commercial company

protect that is directly adjacent to your property? Then, as part of your fence planning, find out about the possibilities of noise-protecting fence constructions!

M – metal fence

In addition to the wooden fence, the metal fence is very popular because it is particularly weather-resistant and safe. There are metal fences in a wide variety of shapes for a wide variety of purposes – from the simple chain link fence to the bar mat fence to the elaborately hand-forged Art Nouveau fence (see J).

N – New

A good fence will last for decades. Especially with components with such a long lifespan, there is now a good opportunity to buy and sell them second-hand. Look around the Internet for component exchanges that specialize in buying and reselling, if for budget or environmental reasons you don’t want to buy a new fence, but a second-hand one, or if you want to sell an old fence that does not live up to expectations, that you have on your fence.

O – optics

When planning a fence, optics play a decisive role. You have the choice between a fence that visually stands out from the overall picture or one that blends harmoniously into it. Sometimes the look is also subject to official regulations, for example when it comes to a historical building complex that is a listed building.

P – care

The level of care that you give your fence depends on the material and workmanship. Roughly speaking, wooden fences require the greatest care, while fences made of plastic (WPC – see W) and metal (see M) hardly need any maintenance.

Q – quality

A fence is a construct of fence posts and fence panels that are integrated into the door and / or gate. All individual components must be perfectly coordinated with one another and set up in such a way that the construction as a whole is stable. Everyday use of the movable fence parts such as door and gate as well as the weather attack the fence mechanically. The better the quality of the fence material and its processing, the higher the probability of a long, damage-free fence life. Save when planning the fence and don’t buy at the wrong end: If you choose cheap offers, you usually have to pay extra in the end. Instead, it is better to use fences whose manufacturers guarantee you high quality and good workmanship.

R – repair

Your planned fence can also break. Whether you should do the repairs yourself or leave the fence repaired to a professional depends on what kind of fence it is. When planning a fence, take a look at our article “ Repairing a fence: How to do it right! “To find out in advance what you can expect in the event of a” broken fence “. In this way, you can also choose your dream fence from the point of view of its reparability.

S – privacy screen

Many fences are designed as privacy screens. It should protect against prying eyes from neighbors or passers-by and ensure privacy. Or the view from your house and garden is so ugly that you would rather look at a beautiful fence, which can also be landscaped (see B). A privacy fence should be about a man’s height, around 1.80 meters. Privacy fences are available in a wide variety of designs: made of wood, stone, metal and plastic (WPC – see W). Our contribution ” Set up privacy fences & create privacy: you need to know that ” gives you a good overview of the possibilities of erecting a privacy fence.

T – door & gate

Are you a parkour athlete? Then you can skip this point because you take your fence safely in the leap. For everyone else, it is important to think about the door and gate when planning the fence. Also consider long-term aspects: If you don’t have a car, you might be planning to buy one and need a correspondingly wide gate. Find out about the security that fence doors and fence gates offer! Last but not least, the manageability of doors and gates is important: Are they easy to open? Do you need both hands to open? These are questions to ask yourself when planning your fence.

U – underground

Not every surface offers your fence the support it needs. Inquire with fence experts what to look for when setting the fence posts. Depending on the subsurface, special foundation points are necessary to protect the wooden pillars from rising damp. You can find out more about this in the article ” Building a fence: Guide to building a fence yourself from wood, metal, plastic and stone “

V – galvanized

Galvanizing iron and steel is one way of protecting these metals from rust damage with a thin layer of zinc. When buying metal fences (with the exception of aluminum, which is considered corrosion-resistant), look out for the quality feature “galvanized”.

W – WPC fence

WPC is a composite of wood and synthetic fibers that looks like wood but has the properties of plastic. For example, WPC is durable and easy to care for. WPC fences are becoming more and more popular, especially as a noise-insulating variant (see L).

X – XS to XXXL

Fences are available in all imaginable sizes: as a mini version, XS to delimit flower beds or as a man-sized XXXL security fence around the property. Decide on a fence that fits both optically (see O) and functionally to your property or garden. A fence that is too small will hardly be able to do its job, while a fence that is too big will cost you money. Be sure to seek advice on the size of the fence – both from the fence specialist and ex officio (see E)!

Y – Do it Yourself (DIY)

The fence builder himself – or not? In addition to ready-made fences from the trade and fences made especially for you by fence experts, you can also plan a fence that you build yourself in a do-it-yourself fashion. This takes a good deal of manual skill and often also a helper. Allow time and money for the self-construction! Everything you need to know about building a fence yourself (including instructions) can be found here: ” Building a fence: Guide to building a fence yourself from wood, metal, plastic and stone “.

Z – fence types

It sounded like the whole fence planning ABC: There are different types of fences, whereby the typing can be based on the material, shape and purpose of the fence. Our little fence customer will give you a good overview of common fence types.

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Winterizing Your Swimming Pool: A Beginner’s Guide



swimming pool

swimming pool

We will explain to you how to make your pool really winter-proof, provided it is a so-called winterproof pool – i.e. a model that can be wintered outside. Our instructions show you step by step on how to winterize the pool and what is important. There are lots of tips from us that have proven themselves in practice.

When it rains acorns and chestnuts from the trees, autumn has come. Not long now and he will be driven away from winter. The bathing season is over for normal bathers. For your pool, which you may even have bought in our online shop, this means: It’s time to make it winter-proof so that you can splash and swim in it again in the coming summer.

What is the difference: winterized pool vs. summer pool?

When you buy a garden pool, you decide whether you want to leave your pool in the garden all year round or just set it up for the bathing season and then spend the winter in a sheltered place. Winter-proof pools are designed, for example, thanks to robust steel walls, so that temperature changes, frost and winter precipitation do not affect them.

The rule is: only the hardy pools remain in the garden in winter. Non-winter-proof garden pools (pure summer pools), on the other hand, which usually only have steel frames, must be stored dry and frost-free in winter, for example in the storage room in your garden house or in the winter-proof garage.

When is the right time to winterize the pool?

Your garden pool should definitely be winterized before the first frost. This ensures that it does not suffer any frost damage. The best time to winterize your pool is when the swimming season is over and you are sure that it will now be cooler and that autumn will slowly come in.

Leaving water in the pool: yes or no?

For winter-proof pools (also called outdoor pools), it is generally the case that they always overwinter with water in the pool. Because the water present in the pool protects the lining of the pool not only from winter weather but also from pollution. But: If you leave the water in the pool over the winter, you have to prepare it for its protective function as well as possible. And it works like this:

Winterizing the pool – instructions and practical tips

In the following, we will show you step-by-step instructions that you should take to heart when preparing your pool for the winter. Otherwise, there is a risk of damage to the pool, and in the worst case, the pool will become unusable.

Winterizing the pool – step 1: cleaning the pool

The pool water should be clean for the winter. For you, it means thoroughly cleaning the pool (walls and floor). In the simplest case, this can be done with a special pool sponge and the appropriate cleaning agents against lime and dirt. Are you the owner of a cleaning robot? Then use it to winterize the pool! Our guide to pool cleaning shows you exactly how it’s done.

Winterizing the pool – step 2: cleaning the pool water

Clean the pool water as you normally would. Leaves and branches can be fished out of the water with a landing net.

Our tip: get water toys, ladders, hoses, mobile pool lights, filters and pumps out of the water, clean and dry them and store your accessories in winter-proof storage.

Winterizing the pool – Step 3: Winterizing the water

The water in the pool should be chemically prepared for wintering in order to prevent unwanted calcium deposits and algae formation. Three values ​​are particularly important:

Set the correct TA value

Determine the current TA value (TA stands for the English expression “Total Alkalinity”, in German: “Total alkalinity”). This can be done with standard test strips or electronic measuring devices. The TA value provides information about the ability of the pool water to compensate for a varying pH value. At best it is between 100 and 150 ppm. To reach this target value, you can increase or decrease the current TA value.

Our tip: The former can be achieved with sodium hydrogen carbonate or a special pH plus agent. For the latter, reach for dilute hydrochloric acid or sodium bisulfate. Always follow the manufacturer’s instructions on the packaging!

Set the correct pH

Next, measure the pH of the pool water. For example with control strips that you can get at the pharmacy. The pH should be between 7.0 and 7.4 at best. Higher pH values ​​quickly lead to limescale deposits, while water with a lower pH value attacks metallic pool parts and mortar in joints.

You can set the pH target value with commercially available pH value reducers and increases, which are available in granulated, powdered or liquid form.

Set the correct chlorine value

The third in the league is the chlorine value. The target value is 0.3 to 0.6 mg / l for so-called free chlorine and a maximum of 0.2 mg / l for combined chlorine. Higher chlorine values ​​can lead to corrosion of stainless steel pool components. Lower ones are not effective enough against bacteria and layers that the pool water tips over The obviously deteriorated water quality quickly becomes noticeable with a very bad smell.

Our tip: In stores, you will also find special additives, also called winter agents, that you can add to the water in your pool in addition to the chemicals mentioned above. They suppress the growth of algae and reduce limescale loss. Attention: The winter agents are not antifreeze agents!

Winterizing the pool – step 4: lowering the water level

When there is frost, the pool water in your pool freezes to ice. The volume expands in the process. If there is not enough space in the pool for this, the ice presses on the pool walls and also into pipes, which can be damaged in the process. Therefore, you should definitely drain some pool water. You can do this with a vacuum cleaner or a submersible pump. At best, the water is then 10 cm below the deepest nozzle or the skimmer (dirt collecting device).

Our tip: In stores, you can also get so-called ice pressure pads, which are supposed to prevent pressure damage. They come either to the pool walls or once in the middle like a diameter through the pool. In addition, the pads help the ice to thaw faster in spring. An inexpensive alternative to the commercially available ice pressure pads made from home remedies is presented in the video:

Winterizing the pool – Step 5: Cover the pool

Finally, you should cover the pool. Not only to keep dirt off but above all: extra water. The protective cover, available for sale as a very inexpensive pool tarpaulin or pool cover or more expensive inflatable pool tarpaulin, fits best when it fits your pool exactly. More luxurious covers, such as sliding halls or roll protection, add additional functions to cover, for example, child safety at the pool.

Therefore, ask for a custom-fit protective cover when purchasing the pool. This should be easy to attach to the pool. Otherwise, the autumn and winter storms would blow them away. Or the hood would be under the weight of rainwater; Snow or meltwater slide into the pool.

Our tip: check the winterized pool regularly. So you can intervene in good time if the protective coverslips and the pool water level rises undesirably as a result.

You will thus know the procedure for winterizing the pool. And should, if possible, take action before the first frost sets in. I wish you success!

Are you looking for additional inspiration around swimming pools in the garden? Then take a look at our Pinterest board about the garden house and pond. On Pinterest we have also put together a large number of beautiful boards on the subject of houses, gardens and garden shed for you.

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Collecting and harvesting rainwater: tips & tricks





Every person consumes approximately 100 liters of water per day. This is drinking water quality, although not all of it is needed for drinking. Because unlike drinking, eating, cooking, and personal hygiene, water for flushing the toilet and watering the garden does not have to be of drinking water quality. Because this can only be achieved with great effort and expense. If you want to save drinking water and drinking water costs, you can collect and use rainwater instead. We’ll reveal everything you need to know in this article.

What is rainwater?

Rainwater is the precipitation that occurs when the water evaporates from seas, lakes, and rivers, i.e. when it changes its physical state from liquid to gaseous. The rising water vapor cools down with increasing altitude, whereby it condenses: Small droplets of water form again, which together form a cloud. If the cloud cools down further, the small droplets become larger and larger, which at some point become so heavy that they fall out of the cloud: It is raining.

Is rainwater clean?

Rainwater contains different substances depending on which body of water it once evaporated from and which path it took when it rose into the cloud and later with it. This is because various dust grains, volcanic ash, pollen, spores and microbes naturally float in the waters and in our atmosphere. In addition, there is man-made dirt, including fine dust from exhaust gases and tire wear from our vehicles, factories and houses, as well as pollutants that we apply in the course of cultivating arable land and forest land, for example. These dirt particles also swim in bodies of water or swirl through our air – and can be detected in the rain.

Difference between rainwater vs. drinking water – a comparison

Rainwater is created in a natural cycle. Drinking water, on the other hand, is withdrawn from nature’s cycle and treated.

While natural rainwater is comparatively soft, the drinking water from our water pipes is rather hard. The reason for the higher water hardness of tap water is the so-called hardness builders, i.e. minerals that are in it, especially calcium and magnesium – both are essential for us humans.

According to the consumer center (VZ), tap water counts in Germany

  • with 0 to 7 degrees of German hardness (dH) as soft water (hardness range I: 0 to 1.3 millimoles of calcium oxide per liter).
  • with 14 to 21 degrees dH as hard water (hardness range III: 2.5 to 3.8 millimoles calcium oxide per liter)

The water hardness of rainwater, on the other hand, is close to zero.

3 good reasons why collecting rainwater is worth it

It was already mentioned above: Rainwater can replace a large part of the drinking water used as service water in the house and garden.

Rainwater saves costs and fees!

Since rainwater falls from the sky free of charge, you also save a proportion of the corresponding water costs, which in turn result from the complex treatment of tap water. And you can also save on the so-called precipitation fee: This is charged for draining rainwater into the sewer (per square meter of the drained area). If, on the other hand, rainwater is retained as desired by law, for example evaporating on a green roof (garden house, carport) or allowing it to seep into the garden soil (both can be achieved with controlled irrigation), you save the precipitation fee.

Rainwater is environmentally friendly!

You should also consider the environmental costs that you collect with rainwater and save using rainwater: Drinking water is of inestimable value, it is one of the most valuable raw and valuable materials of our time. The less drinking water you waste unnecessarily on growing and caring for your ornamental and useful plants and the more rainwater you use instead, the better the ecological footprint of your own harvest.

Rainwater is the better irrigation water!

For watering plants in the house, on the balcony and in the garden, hard, i.e. very hard, tap water is rather unsuitable.

Various plants, for example rhododendrons, camellias, orchids and ferns, cannot tolerate too much lime. In addition, many plants do not get the additives of chlorine, fluorine and ozone, which serve as preservatives in tap water.

And you should also know that: The collected and stale rainwater is usually warmer than freshly tapped irrigation water. This saves your plants a (too) cold shower.

The natural content of minerals in rainwater also has a nourishing effect on plants: it works like a mineral fertilizer.

How can you collect rainwater?

If you want to collect and use rainwater in the future, you need the necessary equipment. Which one depends on whether you collect rainwater from a roof or without a roof.

Collect rainwater – this is how it works with a roof!

The rainwater quality is best as long as the rainwater has not yet touched the ground. It is, therefore, best to collect rainwater fresh from roofs, for example, roofs of houses, garden houses and greenhouses, pavilions, garages, carports, patio covers or sheds. To protect the building fabric, the buildings need a gutter to catch the rainwater and a downpipe to drain it away – into the ground, an existing drainage system or in a collecting container: If the rainwater ends up in one, you can collect it continuously and later use as needed.

The classic is the rain barrel, which is already available in a luxurious version with a cover and tap as well as a sieve/filter. For example in our online shop – take a look!

Our tip: Smaller rain barrels are also suitable for collecting rainwater on balconies and terraces; larger alternatives are rain tanks and rain barrels. You can read more about choosing the right container for your rainwater collection project in our article ” The rain barrel at the garden house: better irrigation water for free “.

For larger collection volumes you need larger collection containers. For example, so-called rain collectors, which also collect rainwater for household consumption, use special underground tanks or cisterns. Both can be installed underground and do not take up any space on the property or in the garden. In addition, the underground rainwater collection slows down the germination of the water.

Rainwater flows from the roof

3 ways to collect rainwater – this is how it works without a roof!

You don’t have a roof to collect rainwater? Then let us show you three alternatives:

  • Collecting rainwater in containers: Place containers on the balcony, terrace, or in the garden to collect rainwater. These can be bowls, buckets and pots. The larger the opening, the more rainwater you collect with it.
  • Collect rainwater in water-repellent tarpaulins: You can also use a so-called tarp, which you buy from an outdoor outfitter, or a sun sail to collect rainwater. You stretch the tarpaulin strategically – with a gradient! – in the garden and let a corner open into suitable collecting containers so that the rainwater collects in them.

Our tip: Are you missing trees or posts to attach the tarpaulin? No problem! Install a rotary clothes dryer in the garden! You can dry your laundry on it in sunny weather and put a tarpaulin on it and collect the rainwater in rainy weather.

  • Collect rainwater on a DIY rain canopy: You can use a self-made frame as a rain canopy to collect rainwater in a targeted manner. Build the frame from four posts, cross slats with a slope and a foil on top, ideally so high that the rain barrel or rain tank can be placed underneath. If you then green the side of the frame with climbing plants, you have created an attractive privacy screen for the bin or tank.

Are you looking for more inspiration around garden design? Take a look at our Pinterest channel . There we have put together a variety of beautiful boards on the topic of house, garden and garden shed for you.

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